Practical help for every opening
Start with the fitting, the finish depth and a safe electrical position. These answers cover plug sockets, back boxes and ceiling downlights, then lead to detailed guides, products and demonstrations.
Browse fitting guidesSocket, switch & downlight help
Secure the electrical position, fit the correct single- or double-gang socket bead, staple its flange flat and skim across the protected centre. Let the finish cure before revealing the cut line and removing the centre carefully.
Read the full answerIt is a temporary cover with a permanent outer plastering edge. It fits over a socket, light-switch or back-box opening so the plasterer can skim across it; after curing, the centre is removed to reveal a strong, clean surround.
Read the full answerMake the electrical position safe, contain the cables or terminated connections correctly and cover the opening with the matching socket bead before skimming. The closed centre helps keep wet plaster out until the finish has cured.
Read the full answerDo not scrape around cables or connections while the circuit may be live. Have the position isolated and made safe first, then clear loose plaster carefully or ask an electrician to inspect any contaminated or damaged accessory.
Read the full answerA new skim, drylining build-up or back box set too deep can leave the faceplate recessed or not flush with the wall. Do not pull it flat with the screws; identify the cause and have the electrical correction chosen for the installation.
Read the full answerUse the double-gang bead and centre it over the box. Where accessories are close together, trim the adjoining flanges and add staples before skimming.
Read the full answerStart with a correctly prepared opening and fix the bead flange flat so its rigid edge reinforces the vulnerable cutout. Skim to the specified depth, allow the plaster to cure fully and remove the centre carefully before fitting the faceplate.
Read the full answerCheck the light manufacturer's exact cutout, secure the cable position, fit the spotlight bead and skim across it. Once cured, reopen only the diameter required by the selected fitting.
Read the full answerMeasure the existing hole, the new light's specified cutout and its bezel. The practical choices are usually a compatible wider-bezel fitting, a matched converter plate or a proper plasterboard repair before a new hole is cut.
Read the full answerRetrieve and secure the cable position before fixing a downlight or spotlight bead over the opening. Its protected centre keeps the position visible and gives the plasterer a surface to skim across before the correct cutout is reopened.
Read the full answerUse a float-and-set socket bead for deeper, two-coat plaster finishes such as sand and cement, lime, bonding or hardwall. Its regulating edge is intended for an approximately 12 mm build-up.
Read the full answerIt helps keep properly secured and enclosed cables or connections away from wet plaster. It is not electrical insulation, so isolate and prove dead before work where required.
Read the full answerElectrical safety
Covering the opening helps keep wet plaster away from correctly secured and enclosed cables or connections. The bead itself is not electrical insulation.
Before work begins, isolate the relevant circuit, secure it against reconnection and prove it dead. Electrical work should be completed by a competent person.
Read HSE safe-isolation guidance ↗Official demonstrations
Watch PC Products fitting demonstrations for socket, spotlight and float-and-set beads.
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